Tuesday, October 18, 2005

Faith

OK - Who here saw "The Last Samurai?" Most people, I'd think. If you recall the last few lines of the movie for a moment, they went something like this: "Whatever happened to the American captain? Some say he died of his wounds. Others say that he returned to his own country. But I like to think that he finally found a bit of peace that he could call his own."

Keeping that in mind, I live in a small town (Seya) which is part of a big city (Yokohama) which is part of a big prefecture (Kanagawa) which is just outside Tokyo. Seya is a great place and I like it a lot. It's very peaceful and quiet and has nice scenery and nice people. It's the kind of place one might like to move post-retirement. You might say it's a "bit of peace that [I can] finally call my own." I know that's kind of pompous of me, to treat Seya like it is my own, but on some level, from my point of view, it is. And I care for this place.

However, this week, I chanced to meet two people who were (from a certain point of view) fouling up this nice peace that I had found. They were Americans, of course. Mormon missionaries, they said. That was just what I needed. They are trying to convince a people (the majority of whom do not believe in even a single God) that Mormonism is right for them.

(Before you continue reading, I just want to say that in writing this, I mean no offense to the Mormon religion or anyone affiliated with it. These were just my thoughts at the time, and are chronicled as such.)

Switching gears for a minute, the Japanese have an immensely rich cultural background when it comes to religion. For those who don't know, first there is Shintoism, the native (polytheistic) religion of the Japanese, still practiced in high numbers today. There are also several sects of Buddhism, which was initially brought over from China with Taoism between the fourth and seventh centuries. Though Taoism isn't too big here, Buddhism is, and the sects that are practiced here are Japan-specific. That is, to say, I don't know anywhere else where Rinzai, Shingon, Shugendo, Pure-Land, or Tendai Buddhism is practiced. (Zen is so popular now in America, I can't be sure.) So that's three religions. Catholicism also came over here a long time ago and was popular for awhile, though not nearly as popular as Shintoism or Buddhism. There are also lesser known Japanese-native religions (hint - onmyodo!) that exist. My point is this: Japan has such a variety of options that are not only rich in imagery and composed of a variety of ideas, but that all of these religions have withstood the test of time. All of them were started over two millenia ago.

With such great traditions to choose from, why would they need something like Mormonism? I mean, someone please tell me if there's something I'm missing. I mean, I am a pretty well-versed man when it comes to religion. I know about the whole Joseph Smith thing and that they believe that Jesus came to America when he was finished in Jerusalem (yes, post-Ressurrection). I've even been to Hill Cumorah (the place where Mr. Smith supposedly wrote and hid the Book of Mormon and where it was later unearthed) and witnessed the pageant they hold there every year on the origins of their faith.

However, even knowing all of this, I couldn't take it. What makes it worse is that I didn't get the impression that they were speakers of any degree of Japanese. This means that either they are mostly trying to convert people who either cannot understand them, or can barely understand them. This means that even if they did "increase enrollment" at their church, would these people really *believe?* I think not.

Adding insult to injury, their nametags had the word "Elder" before thier last names. Mind you, these people had no more than five years on me, and even men of twenty-seven are by no means "elders" of any kind. It really infuriated me that they would take such a dignified title for themselves, probably just because it sounded good. I'm doing better now, but I really wanted to fly off the handle and sack one of them.

And then, they told me that they had a recently built church nearby and it would be great to see me there. I said "OK" and waved goodbye like the gentleman I am, but I really wanted to say something along the lines of Eddie Izzard's "Well, I'm not from your country...:" "You know... I'm a bit conflicted. I really do like the idea of having multiple wives, but at the same time, I don't believe in your god."

Umbrellas

Before anyone asks, no I haven't been playing Resident Evil. This topic is about real umbrellas.

For those who don't know, the umbrella has existed for more than a thousand years. I'm not sure exactly about its origins, but I know that the Japanese have been using them for an extremely long time. Though the designs and switches sometimes evolve, the umbrellas general structure and use remain the same -- first, to keep rain from hitting the body from above, and second, to block the rays of the sun on a summer day.

So, one might ask why an umbrella is still an umbrella after over a millenia. The answer is simple. Every Japanese person currently in existence possesses the innate ability to kill a person in one of three-thousand seven hundred and twenty different ways using only an umbrella. No really. It's true.

In my experience this week, it has rained several times. The rain has not been as harsh as upstate New York can get, but it has lasted for awhile. We're about to get a typhoon as well, so that won't help things this week. However, the point is that I've encountered many many people this week that are not only armed with umbrellas, but know how to use them.

I have seen umbrella-equipped people walking down the street and doing all kinds of various things: carrying groceries, carrying babies, eating, drinking, talking, reading, and riding bicycles even! And sometimes more than one of those at a time (mind you, while walking and holding an open umbrella). It's insane! These people really know how to use these things!

Yin and Yang

OK. We have one element and it is earth. And fire. We have *two* elements and they are earth and fire. And water. We have *three* elements and we call them earth, fire, and water. And wood. OK! Among the elements we have are these: earth, fire, water, and wood. And metal! Nobody expects a Spanish onmyoji reference! (Sorry - I couldn't resist!)

So yeah, this time I'll talk a bit about yin and yang and how I've noticed that they seem to function here. Everyone knows that though yin and yang are opposites, they are both also the same Tao, and there is a little yin in every yang and a little yang in every yin. Yin and yang are also constantly moving and fluctuating every split-second of every minute of every day. However, regardless of how they tend to move, there is always a harmony that exists between the two.

This harmony I can see much better here than in New York. For example, Tokyo is often compared to New York City. I should know, I used to do it myself. Anyway, it is said that Tokyo is like New York City, except more dense and filled with Japanese people instead. To some extent, this is true. However, Tokyo has several things that New York City doesn't.The biggest example I've found is the harmony between nature and civilization. If you take New York City for example, the average house or apartment has a small lawn in front, usually with a tree or two on it and that's basically it. In Tokyo, I find that there is far more nature. Even in Shinjuku, there are bushes and trees and vines and plants of all kinds just creeping out from every corner that they can. I'll post pictures sometime to show you what I mean if I remember. It's just nice to see though as I walk to school. It's not just that there is more greenery either. It's that it looks normal but at the same time wonderful. The average New York lawn I referred to earlier looks normal but also unnatural. This greenery looks like it lives there just as humans live in their homes.

Also, in the middle of a main street in Shinjuku, there are many tall buildings, and between two of them lies a temple. It's about as close to them as it can possibly be, but at the same time, it isn't cheapened by the fact that the buildings are right there. The temple still maintains it's air of mystery and tranquility, again with plants and greenery everywhere amidst the numerous statues that also surround it.

It's very strange, but at the same time cool that this city, though one of the most technologically advanced cities in the world maintains this balance. Mind you, this balance does not exist everywhere. I'm certain there are parts of Tokyo that look just like downtown New York City, but not having witnessed that, it can't possibly be part of my observation can it?

Tuesday, October 11, 2005

Change

After spending three years at the University of Rochester studying Japanese language and culture, I came to the conclusion that of all the things in the world, there is only one real constant and that is change. Everything in life is fleeting and transient, and that (as some of you may know) is the topic of many major works in Japanese literature, namely "Genji monogatari" and "Heike monogatari." Even newer Japanese works like Kikuchi Hideyuki's "Vampire Hunter D" touch on the topic of transience and impermanence.

I used to think that death was also a costant of this world. I used to call death and change the only two immortals that existed. As shown through literature, even 'immortal' gods can die, and no one knows if death itself can die, hence death's immortality. Also, since there is no way for any being to permanently evade death, it is even more so an immortal. However, in my Death, Dying, and Beyond class, I eventually came to the decision (and wrote about it) that someday death may die. The two basically are fighting. If death kills change then death is the one true immortal, but if change is truly immortal, it will have to change the way death works, or even the fact that death exists. For now, I'm hoping for the latter.

Anyway, after many years of thinking that change was the only thing that won't ever change, I realized that there is actually one true immortal that was unaccounted for. That is the fact that airline food will always taste horribly. Their green tea was ok (Is it possible to make bad green tea?), but I can't now nor will I ever be able to stomach enough airline food to get me through a sixteen-hour trip. It really was awful. If first-class riders get a better meal, that is definitely a good reason to stop getting seats in coach! Oh well. If I did it once, I suppose I can do it again... .

Welcome!

Hello everyone and welcome to my blog! I just thought I'd give a brief foreward before I actually posted any entries. First of all, if you're at this webpage, you know who I am and most likely know about my morbid fascination with all things Japan.

Here's the update: after just about four years of interest, I am finally here. I am currently studying abroad from October to June in Tokyo and taking classes here. My host family lives in Seya, a small part of Yokohama. It is very nice and I am having a lot of fun. Oh - something else to be noted is that I don't have internet access often at all, so I will write these on my laptop and post a few at a time when I get the chance. The same goes for the pictures. So, if you notice a lack of updates (or responses to e-mails), just be patient, and I'll take care of it eventually.

Anyway, until I return, enjoy my writings. Unfortunately, due to spammers, I had to disable comments. E-mail me if you like what you read.